Tag 27: 02.06.17

 

Ich komme schlecht aus dem Bett und brauche ewig, bis ich mich fertig bin. Es ist bereits 07:30 Uhr bis ich Abmarsch bereit bin. Als ich am Frühstücksraum vorbei komme, sehe ich ein für italienische Verhältnisses tolles Frühstücksbüffet. Da es eh schon spät ist, kommt es jetzt auf eine halbe Stunde nicht mehr an, denke ich mir. Außerdem will ich heute nur bis Camaiore, das ist etwa der halbe Weg bis Lucca und lediglich gut 20 Kilometer. Also Frühstück!

Ich esse frisches Obst, Joghurt, Croissants mit Honig und bekomme auch noch frisch gepressten Orangensaft. Währenddessen schaue ich schon mal, welches B&B oder Albergo ich buchen möchte. Unangenehme Überraschung: Camaiore und die weitere Umgebung ist ausgebucht. Das kann ich gar nicht glauben. Also rufe ich bei drei verschiedenen Häusern an und tatsächlich alle ausgebucht. Der letzte von den Dreien erzählt mir, dass heute Feiertag in Italien ist und viele Italiener das lange Wochenende nutzen, um Radtouren zu unternehmen. So ein Ärgernis, das nächste B&B ist keine 15 Kilometer von Lucca entfernt, was aber eben auch bedeutet, es sind gut 35 Kilometer von Marina di Massa. Das wäre nur halb so wild, wäre es nicht schon bereits 08:30 Uhr. Aber was bleibt mir anderes übrig, ich buche es, obwohl es nur ein Gemeinschaftsbad hat und vermutlich super einfach sein wird.

Bis ich dann bezahlt habe und tatsächlich raus auf die Straße komme, ist es schon 09:00 Uhr. Will ich nicht erst nach 18:00 Uhr ankommen, muss ich wohl mal Gas geben. Ich ignoriere meine Blasen und stürme los: ca. acht Kilometer auf der Promenade, so nennt sich die hässliche Straße entlang des Strandes, bis ich abbiegen darf ins Hinterland.

Nach zwei Stunden habe ich etwa elf Kilometer geschafft. Die Strümpfe sind feucht und der Ballen am linken Fuß signalisiert Ungemach. Also trinke ich in der nächsten Bar einen Café und natürlich einen Liter Wasser, während ich die Strümpfe tausche und vorsichtshalber mal unter beide Ballen ein Blasenpflaster klebe. Sofort fühlen sich die Füße deutlich wohler. Darauf trinke ich noch einen Café.

Nach 20 Kilometer, noch immer bin ich schnell unterwegs, habe ich Hunger. In einer Bar, die von Chinesen betrieben wird, esse ich eine Focaccia und dazu gibt es einen Cappuccino. Die Bar hat etwas von einer typisch italienischen Bar gepaart mit dem Chaotismus von Chinesen. Das gefällt mir und ich bleibe eine Weile, so dass ich gut erholt die letzten 15 Kilometer ausgeruht angehen kann. Kurz darauf komme ich durch die gut erhaltene Altstadt von Camaione. Hinter dem Städtchen geht es wieder hoch in die Berge. Ich überhole eine Gruppe von mindestens zwanzig italienischen Wanderern auf meinem Weg hoch auf die Berge. Ich schwitze; gefühlt verliere ich pro 20 Höhenmeter einen Liter Wasser. Von oben habe ich einen traumhaften Blick. Gott sei Dank gibt es auf der „Passhöhe“ eine Bar: zwei Saft und ein halber Liter Wasser verschwinden in mir innerhalb von einer vielleicht doch eher fünf Minuten. Der Barmann lächelt mich zahnlos, ob meines Durstes, an. Ich fülle noch schnell meine beiden Wasserflaschen auf. Es sind zwar nur noch gut sechs Kilometer, erschöpft, wie ich bin, können die sich noch ordentlich ziehen.

Olivenbäume dominieren nun das Landschaftsbild. Das sieht toll aus, nur spenden die keinen Schatten, den ich so gerne hätte. Ich werde immer langsamer. Dann, völlig am Ende meiner Kräfte, erreiche ich meine Herberge. Ich gehe zunächst daran vorbei aber die Gastgeberin, eine junge Frau, ruft hinter mir her, dass dies das B&B Il Tiglio sei. Froh wende ich mich und komme herein. Ihr Mann zeigt mir die Gemeinschaftsküche, das Bad und mein Zimmer. Na ja, das ist nicht nur einfach, das ist primitiv und auch nicht wirklich sauber. Die beiden sind sehr nett zu mir und ich setze mich zu Ihnen in den Garten, nachdem ich meine Sachen und mich selbst gewaschen habe. Die beiden sind so schüchtern, dass sie sich nicht so recht trauen, sich mit mir zu unterhalten.

Ich gehe um acht in das einzige Restaurant des Dörfchens und bin ebenso der einzige Gast in dem riesigen Restaurant. Ich darf mir einen Tisch auswählen. Ich gehe davon aus, dass ich dann wohl der einzige bleiben werde. Weit gefehlt, um halb neun kommen zwei Paare und dann geht es Schlag auf Schlag und um neun ist es voll. Das ist definitiv anders als gestern Abend als ich um acht der letzte Gast war. Ein weitere Unterschied: das Essen schmeckt richtig gut und ist super günstig. Das Geschäftsmodell für Getränke ist ebenso anders: man bestellt Wasser und Wein. Unabhängig von der Mengenangabe wird eine Flasche Wasser und eine Flasche Wein auf den Tisch gestellt. Nachdem ich die erste Falsche Wasser getrunken habe, bekomme ich automatisch eine zweite Flasche (und das für 1,5 €). Ob das mit dem Wein auch so wäre?

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